Haast Pass

After a long ride of 380 ks with an accidental detour that added 40 ks when ‘Emma’ our co-pilot live device tried to take us down a short cut over a gravel road (I don’t think so Emma!) we crossed the Haast Pass across to the West Coast.
The Haast Pass reminds me of the Rimutaka ranges that divide Wellington from the Wairarapa, except you can cross them in 20 – 45 minutes – but the Haast Pass takes 5 hours from Wanaka to Franz Josef, Mountainous terrain, steep cliffs, sheer drops.
The stunning parts of scenery for me were the magnificent tall trees (southern beech?) growing right next to the road, the waterfalls and the occasional slips on the road. There has been a huge slip that is being cleared and means that the road is closed at night.
The road has great twisty & windy sections and was mostly smooth until we got across to the western side where the weather has taken its toll. The many slips have caused the road to be patched on most corners and the repairs made the road bumpy and uneven.
We made a quick stop at Fantail Falls, a beautiful spot at a bend in the river with picturesque waterfalls and lovely native New Zealand rainforest all around.
We kept going straight through to make it a nonstop ride to Franz Josef.

Posted in Adventure of a Lifetime, Flora & Fauna | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

The last day of 2013.

Today we pack up our gear and jump back on the bike heading to Franz Joseph & Fox Glaciers. But not before a quick sightseeing drive to Clyde and a quick blast around the racetrack track at Highlands Motorsport park.

I love clothes. Everyone who knows me, knows this. It has been difficult for my friends to comprehend the fact that I am touring for 2 weeks on the back of a motorcycle with little more than a vanity-case sized box of luggage. It sounds like mission impossible.
Over the years working as a stylist and helping others to pack light & look good I have mastered the art of packing pretty lean. There is a wonderful saying about travelling with suitcases which is this: “there are two types of luggage, carry on and lost.” So I prefer to carry on where I can. The carry on allowance is about 45 litres – the side case on the motorbike is 35 so there is not that much difference. Once you have the key to lean packing you never look back. I don’t always do it mind you. But when I do – I do it well.
Here is a behind the scenes look at my wardrobe for this Adventure of a Lifetime, 2 weeks touring the South Island on a motorcycle visiting locations as diverse as sub-tropical rainforest, fiords, plains, lakeside plus glaciers and doing weird and wonderful things like: wine tours, fishing, visiting fine restaurants, boating, sunbathing, hot pool soaking.
Mission accomplished.

20131231-083812.jpg

20131231-083856.jpg

20131231-085049.jpg

Posted in Adventure of a Lifetime, Flora & Fauna, On two wheels | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Well well, Cromwell.

I owe Cromwell an apology, I wasn’t expecting much.
The ride here was very enjoyable, it is only 40 minutes from Queenstown and the road is lovely and winding with river views and mountain hugging stretches that then open out into lovely golden plains.
Renowned for its succulent summer fruit industry and legendary for its production of Pinot Noir, and while i like both of those things immensely this was not a part of the trip that i had high hopes for.
So I am sorry Cromwell. I underestimated you. in a big way. I won’t do it again.
Cromwell is take-your-breath-away pretty, orchard stalls are down every laneway and cellar doors are open and plentiful.

We booked a winery tour with Funny French Cars as it meant two things a) no one had to drive and b) we were not on the motorcycle all day. I began the day unrolling my pin curls I had put in the night before, then I pinned them up into a faux bob. It made a nice change to have a hair style rather than the usual helmet hair. (So bad)
I wandered across the road to the new Cromwell town centre for a market day. The stalls sold everything you would expect: preserves, plants, art, clothing, lotions plus people were offering massage, palmistry, tarot an fortune telling, it was quite a spectacle. The biggest spectacle was possibly me in my loud fluorescent dress, my faux-bob and my full face of make up. The boring part was I couldn’t buy anything as there is no room on the bike. Boo hoo.

Julie the owner of Funny French Cars picked us up in her Citroen at 11am and from then until 2:30 ish we tripped around looking at the sights of Cromwell, meeting the local wine legends and sampling their delicious wines.
When Julie first saw me dressed in my simple (but bright) cotton shift dress she was worried that i’d be too cold as the morning was overcast and it had begun to drizzle. I laughed and said – “cold? Erm, your rain falls straight down. This feels tropical to me, I’m from Wellington.” It was my Crocodile Dundee ‘thats not a knife – this is a knife’ moment, but with bad weather. This isn’t cold, I come from Wellington. Now THAT place is cold. Needless to say, I was not cold once, the sun played peek-a-boo with us at all the right moments and the day was most pleasant.
Lunch was at Wild Earth where the food is fresh local produce and it is smoked in old wine barrels. OMG. To get there you drive out of town a few ks, park, walk across a very narrow pedestrian bridge that spans a canyon with a river at the bottom, on the other side an oasis awaits, a picturesque garden setting, simple buildings an the most amazing and expertly presented food. Pure perfection.
We had the tasting platter of food with a matching tasting platter of wine. it was the perfect way to sample how the smoking process enhances the flavours of the different food: mussels, salmon, venison, lamb and something else I have forgotten. It was a highlight for sure. Two big old golden gentle giant labradors roamed the premises – lapping up the attention from tourists. There were in doggy heaven with more smooches than they could ever need. They stayed away from the food and table areas and were so well behaved, they were a delight. I wanted to stuff them both in my handbag and grapple them away across the pedestrian bridge but they were not wanting to be stolen and I don’t think the bridge would hold me and two squirming massive Labradors.
After lunch there were more vineyards to discover, more excellent wine to taste and an incredible italian dinner to be savoured at Armando’s kitchen in the old Cromwell town centre. We sat on the verandah in the sun and drank up the view across Lake Dunstan talking about what we could do here for jobs. I found a bedraggled little Art Deco house with lake views that needs a lick of paint, so we just need to book the movers now….
the perfect end to another perfect day.20131231-004108.jpg20131231-005033.jpg20131231-005043.jpg20131231-005059.jpg

20131231-005353.jpg

20131231-005431.jpg

20131231-212554.jpg

Posted in Adventure of a Lifetime, Flora & Fauna, Fun (Funity), On two wheels | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Fern fronds.

New Zealand has a ridiculous number of ferns. something like over 200 species. I adore them. I haven’t quite pinpointed what I love about them so much. It could be the fronds, the tight little curled form of the young leaves. These unfurl as they mature and stretch out to become long elegant leaves. The fronds of the fern are of course that coil of the fern is what had inspired the infamous ‘Koru’ symbol or logo. Also our ponga or silver treee fern is our national symbol. When you look at the underside of the leaves, it really is silver.

The ferns in New Zealand range from 10 meter high tree ferns to tiny ferns of only a few millimeters in length.  Fourty percent of the ferns in New Zealand are found no where else in the world! Respect. On this South Island adventure of a lifetime I have been loving seeing all the ferns growing along the side of the road and growing around waterfalls and in crevices on tall trees.

Here are a few shots of some of the stunning fronds i have found so far on this holiday:

 

20140102-165645.jpg

20140102-165655.jpg

20140102-165705.jpg

20140102-165750.jpg

Posted in Flora & Fauna, Things I Love | Tagged | Leave a comment

Doubtful Sound.

Doubtful Sound is so named due to the fact that the chance of there being wifi or cell phone coverage is doubtful. This is only a problem if you are a social media whore like I am. In the real world this is not at all a problem, in fact it is an advantage. So while there is not any chance of tweeting or receiving a text there is a chance that Doubtful Sound will take your breath away with its magnificence. (when I first wrote that sentence I wrote ‘beauty’ then I looked out the window again at the view of the sea and the mountains, I recalled the majestic albatross that flew past the boat when we were in the Tasman Sea and I pressed backspace several times and changed it immediately to ‘magnificence’) Much better.

After a very relaxing cruise from Manapoui we drove in a van over Wilmont Pass. Past subtropical rainforest with over 350 species of moss and what looked like as many ferns. The view from the top of the pass looked right down the sound. Stunning! We drove down the second steepest piece of roading in NZ (after Baldwin St in Dunedin). Once at the bottom we jumped on board a vessel called the Tutoko II which will be our home for the next 24 hours.

We cruised the length of the sound right out into the Tasman Sea and found a spot for fishing. We caught many different species of fish: blue cod – huge blue cod the size of which I have never seen before and sea perch. I caught a terakihi and a scarlett wrass. The South African couple from Brissy caught a freaking shark!!! (which we released).
Our awesome skipper Dave (a kindred spirit with three cats like Moi – one psycho cat balanced out with two tonkinese – we are like twins!) went for a dive and came back with a few cray which were all measured to make sure they were the legal size and were then then made to walk the plank into a bucket of cold fresh water where they met their makers. Now as I type they are bubbling away in a pot with very little water and lots of steam. mmm dinner.

We visited a seal colony where they were all wearing fur. It must be making a come back. I gave them my official seal of approval. We watched one seal journey his bulk right down the side of the large and steep rock face he was on and he caught a wave into the ocean and disappeared. No sign of Heidi Klum.

A massive cruise ship went past dwarfing us, we also saw a bunch of fishermen who were so proud of their catch that they hoisted it high into the air above their heads so that we could see it from some distance. It was a massive groper that looked to be about as long as the nine year old on board is tall.

Now we have tucked the boat into Blanket Bay (which I originally misheard to be named ‘Wanker Bay’. I was about to invent a colorful reason for that name and I realized my mistake. LOL.) Dinner is being prepared (freshly caught fish and crayfish) and we will soon be settling down to enjoy kai moana!

Husband has gone for a kayak and is off exploring a waterfall while I catch up on recalling the days adventures before I forget the detail.

20131229-114310.jpg

20131229-114335.jpg

20131229-114421.jpg

20131229-114443.jpg

20131229-114515.jpg

20131229-114915.jpg

20131229-114948.jpg

20131229-115101.jpg

Posted in Adventure of a Lifetime, Flora & Fauna, Fun (Funity) | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Honey-versary.

27 December 2013 was my first wedding anniversary. We eloped to the top of a mountain in Queenstown. It was everything I never imagined it to be. That is not a typo. I did not see myself getting married so the whole marriage, wedding, eloping gig came as a complete surprise slash gradual awareness to me. From there the whole moment evolved in such an organic and wondrous way, it was magical. Anyway i’ll post more about that another time…what I was getting to was the fact that we did not have a honeymoon. We kept saying that we would, and then putting it off for so many reasons. then all of a sudden it was November and we still hadn’t had one. Then it was summer holiday time…we thought about going overseas but it is the rainy season in the tropics so i suggested that we do that thing that we had been talking about doing for years: a motorcycle tour of the South Island. We wanted to explore our own country and go some places close to home that we had never been. It would be the adventure of a lifetime – on two wheels.
The time frame that we chose to travel fell between Dec 23rd and Jan 05 with out first wedding anniversary right in the middle so the trip became our Honeymoon/first wedding anniversary trip or ‘Honey-versary’.

For our special day we chose the honeymoon suite at Dock Bay Lodge in Te Anau which was so divine and looked out over their beautiful grounds to the golf course and across to the lake. We booked dinner at the very best restaurant in Te Anau: Redcliff Cafe. (I did adore the typo in the menu – I love lamp!)

We were lucky to meet another couple staying at the lodge who were also celebrating a wedding anniversary…their 32nd. (impressed much). They kindly gave us a ride to and from the restaurant so we didn’t have to take the bike, or drive. We asked them for their advice to a long and successful marriage and the husband replied: “Two words: Yes Dear.”
So there you have it, advice from absolute champions at this marriage game.20131231-232248.jpg20131231-232357.jpg

20131231-234709.jpg

20131231-234053.jpg

Posted in Adventure of a Lifetime, Fun (Funity), On two wheels | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Milford.

Holy wow! We took the bike to Milford yesterday. We were lucky to have been advised ahead of time that the biggest attraction of Milford Sound is the journey to get there. This advice was 100% spot on. We headed out at 9am to beat the bus loads of tourists and armed with a map of attractions we made the most of the many scenic stops along the way.
The road is a motorcyclists wet dream! The views are spectacular and the entire trip to get to Milford is a metaphor for life: enjoy the journey.
Highlights (I only have time to quickly mention the highlights now as we are about to be picked up for an overnight cruise on Doubtful Sound) were – the Mirror lakes, seeing a kea in the carpark at the Chasm. The fields of lupin, the sudden changes in scenery on the road itself (one minute in wide open valleys, the next shrouded in a cathedral-like canopy of native trees) and seeing Mitre Peak for the first time.
There is so much more to share about what we did on this day: glow worm caves & a delicious dinner out but the will have to wait.
So enjoy the highlights while we are out of cellphone coverage and I’ll check in in a couple of days.
Will post more photo later – our ride is here! See ya!

20131228-090216.jpg

20131228-090711.jpg

Posted in Adventure of a Lifetime, Flora & Fauna, On two wheels | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Views du jour.

Today we travelled between Wanaka and Te Anau. A distance of two hundred and twenty seven kilometers.
After the lovely winding lakeside ride, the road heading south was straight as an arrow at times. (With two sneaky police cars tucked away out of sight.) There seemed to be an almighty powerful headwind. It took enormous amounts of energy to keep my head up. My neck was getting very tired. I tried to tuck in behind Husband but that bought little relief. It wasn’t until we took a sharp right turn that we met no wind resistance and my muscles all collectively relaxed again. The difference was immense and riding became enjoyable again. Te Anau is very very nice, we had delicious Italian for dinner and according to the owner Husband is lucky to have me and we got limoncello on the house to emphasize this point. (Not the first time this has happened ;-))
Our accommodation in Te Anau: Dock Bay Lodge is stunning! Our room smells of sweet peas (not mahogany) and the enormous views from our second story room stretch out across the lake. We are listening to the birdsong at dusk, have played with Colin the dog and watched a welcome swallow swoop into her nest. Next on the menu is a soak in the spa. Happy Boxing Day to you and yours!

Here is a taste of what we saw on our travels today: 20131226-214934.jpg

20131226-215044.jpg

20131226-215056.jpg

20131226-215124.jpg

Posted in Adventure of a Lifetime, Flora & Fauna, On two wheels | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Wakatipu.

The road out of Queenstown toward Kingston is so far my favourite. Literally lakeside the road is on a tiny shelf of flat land between the Remarkable Ranges and Lake Wakatipu. It has some crazy bendy corners and was nice and smooth to ride on. Lake Wakatipu is New Zealand’s longest lake – and at its deepest it is well below sea level. (This must account for the array of blue)
The road was busy, many many camper vans. Thankfully everyone stayed on the correct side of the road and we joined the many travelers who stopped at the lookout to enjoy the view. 20131226-154633.jpg20131226-154651.jpg

20131226-154959.jpg

Posted in Adventure of a Lifetime | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Cardrona.

Opened in 1863 the Cardrona Hotel has been a comfort stop for weary (and busting) travelers for a long time. It is in a remote & picturesque area about halfway between Queenstown and Wanaka. We had a quick photo shoot & were on the road again.

20131226-153915.jpg

20131226-153859.jpg

20131226-154101.jpg

Posted in Adventure of a Lifetime | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment